Camber Bolt Install and Use
Camber bolts are used on strut suspensions to change camber. On the front of the newer Civics (01-05, 06-11, and 12+), the car has close to 0 camber in front from the factory. That's good for tire wear but not good for front grip in extreme cornering (i.e. autocross and track). Even when you lower you car, strut suspensions don't gain much camber; so if you are lowered, you still don't need camber bolts if what you want is a stock alignment.
**Note that the rear suspension of 01+, 06+, and 12+ Civics do gain significant camber when lowered; so you do need rear camber adjusters to get back to factory alignment when lowering your car.
(Photos show 2 bolts per strut, and this creates usually -2.3 to -2.4 degress camber. Using 1 bolt is fine too and will provide approx -1.3 degrees. You can also adjust the bolt head rotation to vary camber increase; so you can set camber to -0.8 degrees if you prefer (as an example).
Assemble like this with washer tab "inward" at the top and "outward" at the bottom. The bolt head "arrow/ triangle" pointing the OPPOSITE direction as the washer tab.
(because the bolts won't fit all the way
in when set any other way)
Once assembled, rotate the bolt head "arrow/triangle" toward the washer tab for additional camber.
(if you don't rotate the bolt from the setting
at the left, you will have no change in
camber from stock)
(LEFT PIC) You cannot assemble the camber bolts into the strut holes when they are set like the picture at the right. You also cannot disassemble them like that. You MUST set the arrow and large outer tab in the OPPOSITE direction for assembly and disassembly.
(LEFT PIC) The nut used to tighten the bolt is a pinch bolt and will not thread on by hand. When tightening the nut, make sure the "small washer tab" (see Fig 2) is sitting inside the strut hole rather than crushing on the outside of the strut bracket.
This diagram is taken from the SPC install instructions
This little washer tab sits inside the bolt hole (you cannot see it when assembled) and is key to the camber bolts providing camber change.
(LEFT PIC) For adding "negative" camber (where the top of tire leans toward the inside of the car), you set the top washer outer tab toward the inside of the car and you set the bottom washer outer tab toward the outside of the car.
(RIGHT PIC) After assembling the bolts like at left, you will have stock camber. You MUST rotate the bolt like shown at right to change camber. When the bolt head arrow is pointing the same direction as the large outer tab, you have max camber. You can set the arrow anywhere you want to for any camber change. You don't have to set it to max camber change.
Remember to torque the bolts to the spec provided in the instructions (linked below for SPC Bolts)! This is REALLY Important. SPC and Ingalls bolts have different torque spec. Even within the brand, bolt torques have changed based on bolt specification (Grade 10.9 vs 12.9, etc). So, use the instructions that come with your bolts for your bolt's torque spec!!!!!!!!
*** Why torque is important ***
Generally, a bolt's torque spec is set at 80% of yield. Yield is where the bolt will deform and not go back to its original length and where you have hurt it's "clamping strength" (the bolts sole purpose). Note also that a bolt's tensile strength (where it breaks) is above the yield point, and if you get to near this point when you tighten the nut, you can have a catastrophic failure of the bolt (breaks in half), and that can kill someone.
SO DON'T USE AN IMPACT GUN.
TELL YOUR SHOP NOT TO USE AN IMPACT GUN.
TORQUE THESE CAMBER BOLTS CORRECTLY!
(This goes for stock bolts too!)
My Youtube video on camber bolts